Things to do in Negombo | Sri Lanka

Negombo is a sleepy fishing town 37 km north of Colombo. Famous for its fishing industry, canal network and golden beach, it is a popular destination for tourists. It’s the kind of place where you only need to spend a day or so to experience the best of it.

The main attraction is the bustling fish markets that take place each morning. It’s worth getting up early so you can see the boats pull into the harbour at 4am. Overflowing with tuna, cattlefish, crabs and all kinds of other delicacies, there is excitement in the air as the fishermen begin to unload their catch. Impressing the crowd with their expert knife skills, the fishermen were extremely friendly and proudly taught us about the fish they’d caught. The tuna was the biggest we’d seen! This is fun activity to begin the day and a perfect chance to chat to the locals.

 

 

Negombo’s Dutch canal network is another popular attraction, and I believe you can take a ride on the canal whilst doing some wildlife spotting / bird watching. We chose not to go as it wasn’t something that especially enticed us, though if you’re interested in colonial architecture it may be worth a visit.

Of course, you can’t possibly come to Negombo without a look on the beach. Although not as clean or as spectacular as some of Sri Lanka’s other beaches, it is beautiful nonetheless with its golden sands and hypnotic waves. We found it to be a great place for a morning stroll and as it is far less crowded than Unawatuna or Hikkaduwa, it’s a romantic place to enjoy the sunset before dinner.

 

 

Chaos in Columbo | Sri Lanka

After our crappy half day in Kalutara we wanted to treat ourselves to a ride on the famous steam train from Columbo to Kandy. The journey is said to be one of the most spectacular in the world due to the scenic route of tea plantations and waterfalls toward the hill country.

We’d tried to find information online so we could reserve seats but struggled to find so much as a timetable, and in the end we agreed to just turn up at Colombo station and enquire directly. As it turns out, the steam train is only available to book if you are a party of 15 or more and they try to fill the 300 available seats before it will run.

After sitting in the station canteen nursing a cup of tea and feeling sorry for ourselves for a good half an hour, we decided to initiate plan B; get the train to Negombo instead.
 

With two hours to wait until the next train so we agreed to use the time exploring Colombo. A short walk from the station led us straight to the heart of the infamous markets where we were offered a glimpse of what a European city might have felt like 200 years ago. Hand carts weaving in and out the narrow stinking streets as traders competed for attention from potential customers. Their calls distorted into a demented holler caused by the constant repetition of a certain word or phrase.

Even though Columbo is the tourist gateway to Sri Lanka, you’d have sworn the men had never seen a western girl before. The stares and cat calls came from every direction as we ambled through the busy network of streets careful not to run over anyone feet with our matching Skyscraper bags.

In Unawattuna, Hikkaduwa and Kalutaara, we’d been used to Matt being greeted by passers with a jaunty ‘hello sir’ and a polite smile or reserved ‘hello’ toward me; but in Colombo it was a complete role reversal. Every man I passed shouted ‘hello madam,’ desperate to strike up a conversation with me whilst completely ignoring Matt. With the ratio of men to women in the area favourable to men at 20:1, it wasn’t somewhere I’d want to be alone. Although I’m sure they were harmless, it felt intimidating to be given so much attention.

 

After two hours in Colombo we felt relieved we’d decided against an overnight stay as it isn’t somewhere we’d want to spend the evening and apart from the shops, we weren’t interested in any of the other activities Colombo had to offer. This was the vibe we got from the research we’d done beforehand and also from the other tourists we’d spoken to. Bring on the sleepy village of Negombo!

Things to do in Kalutara | Sri Lanka

There is a reason why tourist don’t go to Kalutara… because there’s barely anything to do! Travelling up from Hikkaduwa to Colombo, we made the decision to stop off in Kalutara to break up the journey and check out somewhere that wasn’t a well-trodden route. The lure of a new place to explore was strong and as we jumped off the train we initiated our usual strategy of heading straight to the beach to find a room.

Our usual method brings us to the heart of the action where accommodation is in abundance and shops, restaurants and bars are in walking distance. However, this time the beach was like a ghost town. A dozen guesthouses stood empty and lifeless as we trawled past looking for somewhere to stay. We were called in to have a look at the available rooms by several of the owners, but it was clear no one else was staying there.

As we peered onto the beach it became even more obvious that this wasn’t a place we wanted to spend a lot of time in as it was vacant aside from three local men. The stares from these men and from the children playing in the streets reaffirmed that this wasn’t a town used to foreigners. As it began to get dark, there was a sudden down pour and so we climbed into the only tuk tuk we passed and headed for somewhere to eat.

Wet, tired and fed up, we tucked into rice and curry and made a plan to check into one of the faceless guesthouses we originally passed and leave early in the morning for Colombo.

By the time we’d eaten and got back to the beach, the streets were dark and the only life to be found was that of the cattle who were silently roaming the streets. We quickly ran into a guesthouse and booked in for the night. We paid LK 1,000 (£5) for the night so it was the cheapest place we’d stayed so far, and as we signed in I noticed the last tourist to stay was in 2006!

Needless to say, when morning came we were glad to get out of there. It’s not somewhere I would recommend going to as the beach isn’t a patch on the others Sri Lanka has to offer and there is nothing else worth staying for.

Saying that, I later found out that Kalutara is home to the largest hollow Stupa in the world, which I would have liked to see considering we were so close. Though for me, it’s definitely not worthy of an overnight stay. If you’re inclined to see the Stupa, the trains regularly run through Kalutara station back and forth along the west - south coast so I’d suggest a quick stop off in Kalutara to see it and then get back to main tourist route. There’s a reason some places are more popular than others and in this case, straying from the beaten track did us no favours.

Week 1 of being a traveller

I’ve officially completed my first week of being a traveller! I was expecting the first couple of weeks to feel like I was just on holiday, but it somehow doesn’t feel like that at all. I suppose when you go on holiday you book yourself into a hotel or villa where you can live the life of luxury for the duration of your stay, yet here we are in rooms costing between £5-12 per night. They’d be described as basic at best. Having WIFI, a mosquito net and a hot shower have become our idea of ‘luxury’.

 

From hosing down ants off the toilet each time I need to pee, to washing my knickers in the sink; it is a far cry from any holiday I’d been on. However, lying on the beach drinking fresh coconut juice and spending quality time with Matt far outweighs the negatives.

We’ve had our first experience of getting on a train, backpacks in tow and just hoping we’ll find a decent place to sleep that night. No pre-booking, no idea of how long we’ll stay, and no ties at all. The exhilaration of finding the perfect place and bartering until you’re on the verge of being insulting has become our new lifestyle.

So far we’ve spent a lot of time sunning our snow-white skin on the beach so I’m excited to see more of Sri Lanka. Our Visa have granted us a month on this beautiful island so we want to see as much of it as we can. Feeling extremely lucky to be able to embark on this adventure; even though I’m suffering from about 50 mosquitos bites!

Things to do in Hikkaduwa | Sri Lanka

Hikkaduwa has one of the best beaches in Sri Lanka and is a popular spot for surfers, whether you’re a beginner or advanced, the coral reef allows all levels to enjoy the waves. Near the bottom end of the beach, the gentle waves are ideal for swimming or to try a surfing lesson or two. Prices per one hour lesson are approximately US$20 and you are also able to hire boards for US$2 per hour.

Along the far end of the beach, the real action happens. Best left to the pros, the huge waves generated by the "main reef" has "A" frame waves which you can ride in both directions.

 

A nearby popular tourist attraction is the turtle hatchery. Here you can see turtles waiting to hatch from their eggs, baby turtles merely days old, and adult turtles waiting to be released into the sea. A guide will show you round and explain the different types of turtle in the hatchery, why they’re in there, and the timeframe for them to be released. Very interesting place to spend an hour, and the entry fee of LK 500 per person is well worth paying when you see the incredible work the hatchery does.

Close to the hatchery is the moonstone mine where rare blue moonstone are found. A guide will show you how the moonstone are dug from the ground, polished and made into jewellery. Although entry is free, they will try to get you to buy some jewellery from the shop you evidently end up in. They will also try and get a tip for the ‘interesting tour’, which personally feels like a giant tourist trap. Stay strong and don’t feel forced into buying something you don’t want or handing over any money.

Another tourist attraction nearby is the herbal spice gardens. Again, entry is free, but after handing you a cup of tea, teaching you about the plants used and giving you a (very nice!) massage, they will be looking for a tip. There is no obligation for you to hand over any money, but we did give them LK 200 as the tea and massage were good. Beware of the products they try to sell you at the end of the tour though as you can find all of them for a quarter of the price in local shops. We were disappointed we wasted money buying a coconut hair oil for LK 1,000 that we later saw in a couple of shops for only LK 350.

If you want to avoid the ‘tourist traps’ and soak up some real culture, there is a particularly lovely Buddhist temple in Hikkaduwa that’s worth a visit. Read my detailed blog post on the Thotagamuwa Rajamaha Viharaya.

As beautiful as Hikkaduwa is, you cannot miss the ever present devastation from the Tsunami that happened ten years ago. Hitting Hikkaduwa particularly badly in 2004, there are many memorials to view, including an emotional journey round the Tsunami photo exhibition and a boat trip to the Seenigama Vihara Temple. Read my detailed Tsunami blog for the full list of things to see.

 

We spent four days enjoying the beach bars and soaking up the party atmosphere. Great place for the 18-40 age group, especially young couples. Families with children would be better off in Unawatuna where the sea is safe to swim in and the area is better catered for kids.

Remembering the tsunami | Hikkaduwa

A popular tourist destination in Sri Lanka is the coastal town of Hikkaduwa. Valued for its glorious golden beach, aquamarine waters, incredible waves and party atmosphere, Hikkaduwa appears to be the tropical paradise every traveller is looking for.

Though behind the bliss lies the stark reminder of the devastation that hit Sri Lanka ten years ago. When lying on the beach with a cocktail in hand it is difficult to imagine what it must have been like when the sea began to disappear before the giant waves of the tsunami hit.

Although the majority of the wreckage has been long restored, there are still traces of the damage left. Whether it be the high water marks on the beachfront guesthouse or the buildings still abandoned, it’s clear to see that Hikkaduwa is still physically and emotionally recovering.

When we arrived, it was one week after the ten year anniversary and so it only felt right to visit the heartfelt memorials.

 

First we headed to the 174ft tall Buddha statue built to commemorate the lives lost in the tsunami. Built on its own little island surrounded by water, we crossed the bridge for a closer look. Towering above us, the statue was powerful yet somehow delicate, reminding us of the simultaneous strength and beauty of nature.

With its protective gaze watching over the town, the statue seems to provide great comfort to the locals.

Another memorial  can be found just outside Hikkaduwa that depicts the terror of the tsunami in a bronze cast mural. Highlighting the destruction of the town and deaths of their people, the mural is a striking reminder of how much devastation occurred on that day. The artwork was beautifully haunting and gave a real sense of how frightening it must have been for the locals who had never even heard of the word ‘tsunami’.

Nearby is the tsunami photo exhibition where you can see photographs taken on the day, as well as photos taken of the wreckage left behind, and the enormous clean-up operation that followed. Seeing the graphic photographs of recovered bodies of men, women and children, and reading the survivors’ stories was heart-breaking and made me feel so grateful for what I have. I suppose it was a bit of a wakeup call as it certainly put things in perspective.

From the orphaned children’s artwork showing the terror of that day through their eyes, to the tragic tales of parents whose children had still not been found, the whole exhibition brought tears to my eyes. This piece in particular really touched me.

After the sombre experience of the exhibition, we ended the sad day with a positive spin when we took a boat out to Seenigama Muhudu Viharaya. Situated on an island off the coast, the temple is the only building in the area to have survived the tsunami and is considered a miracle by the locals. The journey to the island was short and the boys who took us across were all very friendly and quick to offer a strong hand to help me on and off the boat. It was a real glimmer of hope to Sri Lanka and one I was glad to see up close.

I would wholeheartedly recommended visiting these four sights if you’re in the area to not only help you understand the history of Sri Lanka, but also to remind yourself of how lucky you are to have been spared from witnessing first-hand the tragedy of a tsunami.

Thotagamuwa Rajamaha Viharaya | Hikkaduwa

I’m probably biased in my review of this ancient Buddhist temple because it was the first I went to in Sri Lanka. I’d never been inside a Buddhist temple before so I was mesmerized by the sheer beauty of this serene place. As you enter, you’ll be met with well-preserved murals lining the walls from floor to ceiling, crumbling, but still beautiful, Makara toranas and a huge reclining Buddha.

Several hundred years old, the Thotagamuwa Rajamaha Viharaya is located in the little village of Thelwatta and it is regularly visited by locals and tourists alike. If you go on Poya day (full moon of the month) you’ll find many locals dressed in white offering blessings of rice and flowers to the statues.

Outside the temple there is a sacred Bodhi tree that is said to have been planted from a branch of the very tree the Buddha sat under.

Beautiful and serene, this temple remains one of the few in Sri Lanka that hasn’t been made into a tourist attraction charging a ridiculous entrance fee. Go and see it if you can.

 

Best places to eat in Unawatuna

Where to When we first arrived in Unawatuna, the beach immediately drew us in when we were ready for a bite to eat. With dozens of bars and restaurants to choose from, the beach in the evening becomes a long strip of twinkly lights and expectation. What could be better than tucking into your dinner whilst the Indian Ocean gently laps in front of you, right?

Wrong.

In our experience, the places on the beach were expensive and of poor quality. One was so awful I couldn’t even eat it. Of all the meals we had when in Unawatuna, the worst two were from beach restaurants and so we decided to avoid it after the second bad meal.

Luckily, there is no shortage of other places to eat. Here is our top three:

1.       Mettha’s Home Cooked Meals

We enjoyed vegetable curry, fish curry, mango curry, potato curry and Dahl all in one delicious meal. Very friendly and quiet place that doesn’t serve anything but rice and curry. You will pay approximately LK 900 per person (£4.50), which is fairly expensive compared to other places, but it’s worth it for the best Sri Lankan rice and curry in Unawatuna!

2.       Sunil Garden Coffee and More

Catering for the European market, we quickly fell in love with this place. The shaded setting makes it the perfect escape from the sun and we soon found ourselves in there daily, even if just for a cup of tea. The menu is limited as it is more of a coffeehouse than a restaurant, but everything we tried was delicious. It also has the best chocolate brownie I’ve ever tasted!

3.       Pink Elephant

A great selection of travellers staples such as wraps, burgers, sandwiches, grilled fish etc. All served with salad and fries. This place was packed every night due to the cheap food and cocktails, pumping music, and party atmosphere. Impossible to be unhappy in such a place.

 

The dogs of Sri Lanka

When we first arrived in Colombo we were exhausted after 28 hours of travelling, including three long, uncomfortable flights. After lunch on the Isle of Man, dinner in Manchester, and breakfast in Dubai, we were overjoyed to have finally reached Sri Lanka. As we didn’t confidently know how to get to our guesthouse,  and we were too tired to be battling with trains / buses / tuk tuks, we treated ourselves to a taxi.

The cost to Unuwatuna from the airport was approximately £30 which was great value for the three hour ride. You do have to pay extra for the toll road, but this was only £1.50. Our driver was lovely and we felt completely safe with him. Looking through the window on our way through Colombo, I was fascinated by the number of stray dog wandering the busy roads. Some were curled up sleeping as the traffic had to swerve round them. The dogs didn’t even budge.

 

Over our five day stay in Unawatuna, we witnessed the dogs sunbathing on the crowded beach throughout the day, curling up under the sun loungers to keep cool. They were still there in the evenings, amongst the restaurants and bars.

I was expecting to feel terribly sorry for them, but they appeared well looked after and their coats seemed in good condition. The locals were more than happy for them to roam wherever they desired and so the dogs were content. I never saw one dog beg for food or bother the tourists, they were happy to keep themselves to themselves.

Though there was one dog who took a shining to me and Matt, who we nicknamed ‘Sweetie.’

 

Sweetie wore a diamante collar so I’m fairly certain she belonged to someone, though she too roamed the streets with the strays. She first appeared on our doorstep on New Year’s Eve and then every evening she would sit and wait for us to come home.

Whenever she saw us she’d wag her tail excitedly and follow us to our patio where we’d spend the late evening winding down before bed. I’ll admit, I grew very fond of Sweetie and as both Matt and I come from ‘doggie’ families, it felt familiar to be sat with a doggie companion at our feet.

When we left Unuwatuna and came to Hikkaduwa, there are more dogs roaming the street, though a lot less than Unawatuna and they tend to avoid the beach. The Hikkaduwa dogs are more feral and it is clear they are flea bitten and uncared for. It is a sad sight and so I try to avoid looking too closely as they pass me in the evenings, where it is cool enough for them to scavenge for food.

 

We are now living with two dogs that belong to the guesthouse owners, ‘Blackie’ a little terror with a passion of howling at 1am to assert his dominance over the other dogs in the village, and a gorgeous little puppy who just wants to sit on your feet and lick your toes.

There to greet you in the morning and at night, these two dogs are the only ones in Hikkaduwa I’d feel confident interacting with – very different from Unawatuna!

I’m interested to see who else we’ll meet on our travels!

Things to do in Unawatuna | Sri Lanka

Unawatuna is a popular tourist spot in the south of Sri Lanka, and the prices certainly reflect this! Although much cheaper than back home (Isle of Man), Unawatuna is expensive compared to Hikkaduwa (a mere 25km away).

 The main attraction is the beach, which is beautiful but crowded. Bars and restaurants line the golden sands and are open from 9am til midnight, so there is plenty of choice if you’re looking for somewhere to eat or drink with an incredible view of the Indian Ocean. Though we found the food was a lot nicer and cheaper off the beach.

The nightlife is non-existent so if you’re looking for beach raves, this is not the place for you! The bars on the beach are lifeless and dead in the evenings, but check out ‘The Pink Elephant’ for cheap cocktails and a lively, fun atmosphere.

Cooking classes are a popular activity and you’ll find signs promoting this along the main strip. Classes tend to cost around LK 3,000 per person, but we were lucky to find the lovely lady of La Villa guesthouse (where we were staying) who taught us how to make traditional Sri Lankan food for LK 2,000 per person. They don’t advertise this, but go and enquire as they are extremely friendly and would be thrilled to teach people, regardless of whether you are staying at their guesthouse or not.

We had great fun making rice, fish curry, Dahl curry, coconut sambol and poppadums’ the traditional way. We were taught the Sri Lankan customs, such as blessing the rice,  how to look out for when the curry is ‘dancing’ and the techniques of how to eat the whole meal with your hands. (A strange experience that is worth trying at least once, even if you do walk away thankful forks were invented!)

 

There are yoga classes available, again widely advertised, and were tempted to give it a go, but were still on UK time and never up early enough! Classes cost in the region of LK 2,000 per person for an hour.

 

As for things to see, there is a temple at the top of the hill on the far end of the beach. A short climb will see you come face to face with a giant Buddha. We took an evening stroll up there and the view of the beach at night was gorgeous, though the Buddha was fairly modern (possibly erected after the devastation of the tsunami ten years ago.)

Other than that, Unawatuna is a quiet place better suited to families with younger children who will be safe in the sea as its protected by a coral reef. After 3-4 days we were bored and ready to move on. The people are very friendly, but be wary of the tuk tuk drivers who will try to charge ridiculous amounts for the shortest of journeys. Ask for the price up front and never accept the first offer. Barter as much as you can or you’ll quickly spend a small fortune.

For singles, couples, and groups of friends, Hikkaduwa is a much nicer alternative with a better beach, several clubs, lots to see, and generally a lot cheaper.